Gordon Ramsay is a man with his fingers in a lot of pies. So I had to try a burger that had Gordon Ramsay’s finger in it. On second though, gross… Figuratively. Bread Street Kitchen is just one of the 14 London restaurants that are part of the Gordon Ramsay Group – a group with 30 restaurants globally and six Michelin stars. Three of those stars reside in the Chelsea flagship venue, ‘Restaurant Gordon Ramsay’ which has held three Michelin-stars for over 12 years.
Nowadays, Gordon Ramsay is just as well known for his fiery kitchen tirades as he is for his cooking, but a man doesn’t build an empire like this by being a slacker. Ramsay’s many television cooking series, reality shows, and restaurant disaster rescues are a result of hard work at a craft which made him one of the early British culinary standouts in a field now rife with British celebrity chefs. According to Forbes, Ramsay’s empire netted him $60 million in earnings in 2015 – not bad for a kid who started out playing football in Scotland.
Ramsay’s cooking career started in the kitchen of Macro Pierre White before advancing through that of Albert Roux, Guy Savoy, Joël Robuchon, and Pierre Koffman. Not a bad roster if you want to learn a thing or two about cooking.
Bread Street Kitchen represents one of Ramsay’s latest ventures that is a casual adventure when compared to all his Michelin starred joints. Bread Street has a New York City, Great Gatsby vibe of the art deco 20s and 30s and sits just opposite St Paul’s Cathedral in the One New Change mini-mall.
The tiled floors and looming ceilings surround you and the open kitchen gives it a noisy, New York feel as the waiters bustle to and fro. The burger is a relatively simple affair: £12.50 for a short rib beef burger topped with Monterey Jack cheese, fresh veggies and Siracha mayo.
The perfect proportions of the burger please the OCD in me. The burger is served in a brioche-style bun with an eggy, glossy finish that holds the perfectly-sized burger patty. The cheese is melty and engulfs the patty and Bread Street has shown some restraint with the sauce so that it doesn’t ooze all over you. It appears they cut the lettuce down to size in a bid to make everything concentrically circular. Call me OCD for liking that, but to me, the only thing worse than a lousy bit of beef is an under-sized patty that is swallowed up by the bun and toppings.
Hand-cut chips or mash will be another £4 if you fancy a side – or Ramsay’s mac ‘n’ cheese with garlic-roasted crumbs will be £5.50. It’s on the pricey side for such a simple burger, but it’s done well and satisfies the meat-lover in me. It doesn’t try to bowl you over with elaborate fixings, rich delicate toppings or the like – it simply does the job.
It’s worth noting that Bread Street Kitchen also does some nice steak cuts. 35-day aged beef from “artisan” suppliers are on offer for between £10-11 per 100g. Ramsay doesn’t typically cut any steaks lower than 500g, so you’re looking at £50-55 for their bone-in prime rib, T-bone, or Porterhouse cuts. I haven’t tried these, but it may be worth another visit from the beeffanatic to sort those out.
Overall, Bread Street Kitchen is a fun venue to have a group meal and drinks in. I really liked the buzz in the restaurant and the look and feel. The fact that it sits directly across from Jamie Oliver’s Barbecoa is a funny twist as two of England’s biggest celebrity chefs go head-to-head.
My final take on the burger: it’s quite nice, but just that – it doesn’t wow or stand out in a crowded London field. It almost seems that it’s on the menu because it has to be… It’s good, not great. Perhaps the simplicity IS the thing that makes it stand out when others are adding foie gras, roast beef slices, exotic cheese, and bone marrow, but I just feel like they could do a little more for the price. Tempt me back with an all-out burger, Gordon, do it!
You can find Bread Street Kitchen inside One New Change at 10 Bread Street, EC4M 9AJ, or visit their website here.
Bread Street Kitchen Burger – 39/50
Beef (7): tasty, but perhaps the kitchen was busy that night because it was overcooked.
Bun (8): eggy and glossy brioche the way I like.
Toppings (7): simplicity in toppings and all contained in that OCD concentric circle format.
Value (7): Pricey for the simplicity, but it is a Gordon Ramsay burger, so you got pick your battles.
Ambiance (10): great space for this venue. I really love the look and feel of the entire restaurant and the open bar and kitchen add the clamor of a NYC joint.